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Agro-Tower Grow Pots Insulation & Operating Suggestions.....
Farming And Gardening Is Fun, When Using My Vertical Grow-Pots.
Great For City Gardens and Farming in small areas.
(Patio Type Tomatoes, Small Vegetables, & Succulents)
Growing Organic Crops Is Your Option!!
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PRODUCT DIMENSIONS:
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The Agro-Tower Grow Pots come nestled together like buckets for easy shipment and
storage.
Each unit is 20 inches in diameter and contains 6 planting ports with 4 inch
openings. Planting ports are 10 inches apart and 8 inches depth and one unit weighs 2.8 lbs.
A stack of 6 units is 16 inches high when shipped and 4 feet high when Assembled,
containing 36 planting ports.
You can stack Grow Pots as high as you desire!
Each Grow Pot unit added provides 6 more planting ports.
INSTALLATION:
Grow Pots lock securely into place to achieve the desired height.
During installation, simply insert the 1 inch pegs on the bottom of each unit into
the holes provided on the top of the succeeding unit!
Pre stack the Towers empty before filling them with medium. This allows
the units to return to the original shape when molded and they will be easy to re-stack after \
filling with planting mix.
Before using in Windy Climates:
To add to the stability of the Towers in high wind conditions, you may wish to install a pipe or a
post, (from ½ inch to 1-1/4 inch in diameter ) through the center of the Towers.
A 1-1/4 inch ID, (inside measurement) hole is provided in the center of each of the units.
Simply insert the pipe or post best suited for your conditions.
Umbrella Stand Stabilizer:
If stacking the Agro-Tower Grow Pots over 3 units high, an umbrella stand works great on
balconies, roof tops, or patios and can be used with different accessories such as, half wine
barrels, plastic pans filled with colorful rocks and a platform roller makes it easy to change
locations if desired. All of these items can be purchased at your local garden center.
Commercial Farms & Garden Ideas:
Each Grow Pot has a 1-1/4 inch ID, (inside measure)
sleeve provided in the center for a vertical stabilizer post.
Some Growers who grow for Farmers Markets and other Commercial Outlets use a
galvanized metal post, conduit pipe, or rebar that will fit inside a
one inch or a 3/4 inch schedule 40 PVC Pipe.
They buried the metal pipe or rebar in the ground 12 to 18 inches, or more, that is long
enough to go through the first 3 or 4 pots, then slide the PVC pipe over the metal pipe or rebar
that will clear the top of the tower about six inches. This will allow you to insert an irrigation spike that has a 360 degree pattern to irrigate from the top of the tower and drain into each Grow Pot below. ( Make sure that each tower is plumb and level)
To elevate the towers off the ground about one foot or more and have a slick surface that will allow you to twist or turn the towers one way or the other 180 degrees for maximum sun, or harvesting purpose. A five gallon black plastic bucket that nurseries us to transport small trees and large plants in, that have a base that is about eight and one half inches wide, works well. Just drill a hole in the center that will allow you to invert the
bucket and slide over the stabilizer post.
Buckets are available used and new at your local nurseries.
An eight inch PVC Pipe, cut to lengths you desire, works very good in most cases.
Both systems help to elevate the tower from small predators, disease, and saves your back.
When you are installing several towers in a row, you can use a PVC-T with a short nipple that
that is inserted in the top of Post to run your irrigation line, or lateral through from tower to tower.
Plug a 1/4 inch distribution hose into your irrigation lateral and connect to a sprinkler, or a circle of
drip hose on the top of the Tower.
( A 1/4 inch cut off valve installed in the distribution hose will allow you to control your irrigation
pattern and flow.)
Note: In some conditions a floor flange is used to connect to a base plate or platform,
to attach your stabilizer post.
Greenhouses that have concrete floors:
A concrete drill can be used to drill holes for the rebar or steel pipe stabilizers.
Some growers stagger two rows of towers 3 ft. to 4.5 ft. apart for maximum sun.
They leave five or six foot service alleys in between the rows.
The PVC pipes can slide over the steel pipes,
(but do not need to be driven into the ground or cement)
Commercial Vineyard Type Applications:
For commercial growers, vineyard style applications work great with the Towers. To increase
stability, a vineyard wire can be run over the top from post to post, then simply run the
irrigation laterals over the top of the Towers and connect to the vineyard wire. Plug a 1/4 inch
distribution hose into the lateral above the Towers and connect to a sprinkler or a circle of
drip hose, (add more circles if needed).
Another suggestion would be to use a PVC pipe as a stabilizer through the center of the
Tower, then use a PVC - T with a 2 inch or 3 inch piece of PVC pipe inserted into the T, then
slip the short piece of pipe-T over the top of the stabilizer pipe, then run the irrigation lateral
through the T's from Tower to Tower, (no glue is needed when making the PVC post caps).
Suggestions:
This is a real simple way to stabilize the Towers when stacking over 4 units
high and be able to rotate them for maximum sun.
Step # 1 - Bury the stabilizer pipe about 12 to 24 inches in the ground. The post should be
plumb and long enough to clear the top of the tower by 5 to 6 inches.
It's important for the tower to be plumb and level for the irrigation to flow evenly down through
the tower.
Step # 2 - Purchase a plastic pan 20 inches in diameter and 2 - 4 inches in depth from your
garden store, then use a hole saw to cut out a hole in the center of the pan. The plastic pan
makes a slick smooth surface for the tower to rotate on and you can twist the tower 180
degrees back in forth for maximum sun.
Step # 3 - Slide the pan over the post and countersink it in the
ground about 1.5 inches, a base of gravel or sand is great for proper drainage. Make sure the
pan is centered and level, the Towers need to be level and the post plum, in order for the
irrigation
water to flow even from unit to unit.
Note: Another very good method is to cut an 8 inch diameter PVC pipe
into lengths that you desire and bury part of the pipe into the ground around
your stabilizer pipe. This gives your Tower extra height and a smooth base
that will allow you to rotate the Tower 180 degrees back and forth after each
pick.
Step # 4 - "Suggestion" This is a good time to mix into the medium a
small amount of a good slow release fertilizer, if none is provided.
Miracle Grow potting soil is very good and you will not have to add any fertilizer until fruiting
Add Liquid Miracle Grow as needed. Other potting soils and fertilizers that can be
purchased on the Internet or local garden stores are also very good.
Do not over fertilize or you will burn your plants, more can be added later as needed!
Step # 5 - Slide each unit over the post and fill with about 1/2 cu ft. of the medium that you
intend to use, then stack the units to the height that you desire.
Step # 6 - Soak the medium for a few hours or over night, this will allow the medium to settle
in the pots. More can be added while planting if needed.
Step # 8 - You are now ready to plant. Sooo... begin planting!
One customer buried the first pot in the ground for a stable base.
Irrigate from the top down...
Water by hand or simply connect to your existing irrigation system using a 1/4 inch
distribution hose connected to a circle of 1/4 inch soaker tubing, drip hose or sprinkler,
installed on the top unit of the Tower. Add another circle about half way down if needed. The
circles of drip tubing should reach out just inside of the planting ports and the towers should
be level to get a good even flow down through the system.
Growing Mediums:
Each Grow Pot Unit holds about 1/2 cubic ft. of growing materials. There are a variety of
mediums to choose from depending on the crop that you intend to grow. As a rule of thumb
70% to 80% of perlite & 20 - 30% of peat moss or core is used for the hydroponics method.
Your local garden stores offer a variety of mediums that contain enough fertilizer to last up to
90 days, e.g., Super Soil and Miracle Grow that is sold at most Wall-Mart and Home Depot
stores.
Special local needs: Consult your local nursery or County Agriculture Extension Agent or
local garden store for specialized growing information.
Consultation: For more installation ideas such as spacing, rotating, or hanging the Towers,
please Call: Lee Blevins, Inventor.
Planting Tips
Important considerations for planting strawberries
Strawberries
Careful planting is very important for early fruit and good fruit production. You cannot make early strawberries from plants with damaged root systems, and damaged roots can allow plant disease problems to overtake the plant while the plant repairs and forms new roots.
Moisture is very important to the new plant. If the roots of the new plant ever dry too much, the roots will be quickly damaged, and will never function to grow the plant.
This is very, very important for early plantings.
Plants harvested early (before October 10 usually) make leaf growth very quickly, but have roots that grow slowly. New leaves require the plant to absorb increasing amounts of moisture. To keep the plant alive, the roots must be in good condition and must be in contact with good moisture.
The more roots that are placed in good moisture, the better chance the plant has to survive the difficult time before the roots catch up with leaf growth.
 If the roots are cut off short, there will be less early root system to absorb water, and it may not be possible to maintain bed moisture above the level of the shortened roots.
 If there is air around the roots, there is much chance of damaging the roots exposed to air, and no chance for the exposed roots to help support the plant.
 If the roots are bent near the top of the bed, it may be easy for the bed to dry below the root level, killing or damaging the plant.
 If the bed ever dries too much, moisture may be taken away from the roots. This will damage the roots, and injure the growth of the plant.
 If the bed ever dries below the roots, the plant roots may be permanently injured, and the plant may die.
You cannot have even, healthy plants and early fruit production without careful planting and careful management of early water to maintain moisture around the roots. Careful plantings with the plant roots placed very well will always produce heavier and earlier than careless plantings that require replants, and recovery from root injury.
Recommendations: Give the plants good protection during planting by filling boxes of plants with water to soak the roots before you take the plants into the field. Remember, even a few minutes in the wind and heat can dry out plant roots and injure them before they are put into the ground. Does let that happen. If the plant roots look dried out before they are planted, they will not perform properly, and you may have difficulty with dieback from injured roots when the plants begin to leaf out.
Please soak roots before you plant!
When you plant, remember that every plant is important. Every plant placed well can make great fruit. Every plant placed poorly will cause you problems.
Please don't plant to finish quickly: plant to do a great job!
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(888) 269-5343
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